Up to 1941, the standard issue uniform item for working duty, non-combat, was the blue denim uniform. Taking the same Herringbone Twill material they were using for coveralls, the Army developed the HBT jacket and trousers. Originally designed to replace the duty of the denim uniform, the government saw to make the garments larger than the listed size for use as a second layer over the wool uniform. Eventually, the uniforms were being used on their own in warmer climates, ruling out the use of the khaki uniforms.
Army HBT jackets are built differently from the US Marine HBT jackets. So, it is key too look for the right things when shopping. The early 1941 pattern featured a button front with metal buttons, two breast pockets, and lapels. Some variants actually used plastic buttons for use in hot environments, such as desert or inside a tank, but aren't common. The garment is easily identifiable by two buttons sewn close together at the bottom of the button front.
The 1942 pattern is the most common pattern. It doesn't have two buttons at the bottom of the button down front. Instead of pleated pockets, it has square cut pockets with pleats on the side. A modified version of this jacket has a gas flap and buttons along the back of the collar to attach a gas hood. Both patterns used a flat metal button with 13 stars in a pattern on it (if it had not sewn with plastic buttons).
It must be mention that the Marine HBT uniform has a different look and isn't correct for an Army impression. To help you differentiate, here are some clues. If the jacket isn't marked with the traditional Eagle, Globe, and Anchor or the letters USMC stenciled on it, it can be hard for the unexperienced eye to tell. The shade of green the Marines used was Sage Green, which is a lot lighter of a green compared to the Army's OD #7. However, HBT garments can fade, especially when they've been in the sun for years. So color differentiation on original garments can still be tricky. Look at the pockets. Marine HBTs have one breast pocket, with no flaps, and two waistline pockets. If that gets tricky, take a look at the buttons. The Marine buttons used bronze on early patterns and then black painted steel. The buttons are pressed, with US Marines written in a circular pattern. A US Navy version, for use for their Marine attached Corpsmen and Seabees, have a similar Army cut, but the buttons are stars and a wreath instead of US Marines (although most were just issued the Marine pattern for simplicity of logistics once at the front).
Looking at the right size for you, there are a couple of things to bear in mind. These items were designed to be worn OVER wool uniforms. Thus, if you are wearing an HBT garment that is listed in your size with nothing underneath, you should be swimming in it, like a 12 year old boy trying on daddy's uniform (save for the sleeves hanging over the hands). They are sized big on purpose, so if you're ordering reproduction HBTs, order the size that is true to you. However, if you're looking at originals, it is quite possible that the garment you're looking at has shrunk, especially if it is somewhat faded. It may not shrink much, and it may have shrunk down to a comfy size for you, but it won't be the proper look for an HBT. When looking at originals, it's best to try and get or ask for measurements, especially if you can't try it on.
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